The church originally stood just south of the Palazzo dei Normanni by the banks of the now buried River Kemonia.  It is thought to date back to the sixth century, but after the conquest of Palermo in 831 it was converted into a mosque.  After the reconquest it was converted back into a church and around 1136 it was given by King Roger (d.1154) to the Benedictines.  The consequent 'new' church was configured as a mourning chapel for court dignitaries and was dedicated to St John the Evangelist.  It was never a hermitage, the name apparently coming from St Hermes, the mother of St Gregory the Great.  In 1524, Charles V granted the hospice to the monks of Monreale for their homes, which led to the transformation of the entire complex.  It was restored a little before 1882 in a medieval style.

Description
The church is in typical Byzantine cross style, with 3 apses to the east, the flanking 2 being in the 2 towers being utilised as transepts.  The northern tower is the tallest remaining structure with 3 storeys standing above the height of the twin bay nave, the bays being separated by an ogival arch.  The southern tower has been enclosed by a later hall lying to the south. The roof is adorned with 1880s domes in red brick, based upon the architect's guess that the originals were red as he had discovered red painted tile fragments.  The base of the central apse has been excavated and the original church floor built upon by the ashlar walls has been uncovered, 6' under the current floor.  

The church exterior is brutally plain, but the attached cloister has small double columns with capitals decorated by vegetable motifs which support ogival arches.  The cloister also includes an Arab well.

Copyright©2019 Paul Martin Remfry

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