Balvenie
The
castle is located on a promontory above the River Fiddich to
the north of Dufftown, a small town originally called
Mortlach. It has been suggested that a castle was
first built
at Balvenie in the twelfth century, based on the villa and
monastery of Mortlach (Murthillach)
being mentioned in a confirmation
of a grant of lands by the kings of Scots to the church of Aberdeen in
1157. The existence of a vill may also imply that a castle
was
here. Otherwise the first Mortlach castle is thought to have
been
built in the thirteenth century by either William Comyn (d.1233) or his
son Earl
Alexander of Buchan (d.1289). William Comyn was the warden of
Moray in the early thirteenth century and had married Countess Margaret
of Buchan,
sometime between 1209 and 1212. Upon the death of her father,
Fergus, the last native Gaelic Mormaer of Buchan at some point before
1211, the earldom of Buchan had passed to William as the inheritance of
his wife, the only surviving child of Fergus. This was all
tied
up with the campaigns of King William the Lion (d.1214) to pacify the
north
and bring it under Scottish control. Despite this, the
lordship
of Balvenie seems not to have originally formed part of the earldom of
Buchan, as Earl Alexander Comyn exchanged land in East Lothian for it
during the 1260s.
During the wars that ruptured Scotland after 1292,
the Comyns sided with their relative, King John Balliol (d.1314), after they
lost
their claim to the Crown. They continued to fight for his
cause
after he was deposed by Edward I
of England in 1296. Peace
eventually was agreed between the waring factions and in 1304 Edward I
restored ‘the castle of Mortlach' to Earl John Comyn of
Buchan (d.1308). In 1306, Earl John's 2nd half cousin, John
Comyn the Red was murdered by Robert Bruce
in Dumfries church, precipitating Bruce's bid for the Crown.
In
opposition to Bruce the Comyns held to their loyalty to Edward I as
king, but they were all but annihilated when abandoned by Edward's
successor, Edward II (1307-26) and overwhelmed by Robert Bruce who
became king as Robert I of Scotland (1306-29). After
destroying
the Comyns at the battle of Inverurie on 23 May 1308, Bruce granted the
lordship – but not the earldom of Buchan – to his
friend,
the Good Sir James Douglas. It is possible that the castle
was
derelict at this time, a victim of Bruce's harrying of
Buchan.
James' family, the Black Douglases, became as mighty as the Comyns,
with a power base in southern Scotland. They seem to have
kept
the castle up until 1455. This was after King James II of
Scotland (1437-60) had murdered the young Earl William Douglas in
1452. As a result his brother, the ninth earl, rebelled in
1455 but
lost and had his lands and estates forfeited. In 1460 King
James
II gave Balvenie castle to one of his relatives, the first Earl John
Stewart
of Atholl (d.1512) for the princely rent of one red rose a
year.
John subsequently married Margaret Douglas, the widow of the eighth and
possibly also the ninth earl, that year. Stewart was later
known
as Sir John Stewart of Balveny. The fourth earl of Athol
(John
Stewart, d.1579) was a member of the Mary Queen of Scots' council and
housed her in the Atholl lodging on 4 and 5 September 1562 during her
campaign against Atholl's father-in-law, the fourth earl of Huntly.
In the seventeenth century the castle was held by the
family of Innes of
Balvenie, although the fortress saw little of the fighting that
shook the kingdom in the 1640s. Following the Battle of Fyvie
in
1644, Balvenie castle was occupied by the marquis of Montrose to allow
his men a few days' rest in safety. By 1645 the Innes appear
to
have been in financial difficulties and the castle seems to have passed
to James Sutherland 'of Balvenie' by 18 April 1648. A little
later on 10 June, Sir Ludovic Gordon of Gordonstoun and his wife
Elizabeth Farquhar also seem to have been in possession of Balvenie, or
perhaps a part of it. The next year the castle was attacked
by
General Leslie's Covenanters and eighty Royalists were killed, amongst
whom is said to have been Walter Innes, who was again described as the
owner. Innes had certainly died some time before the end of
1650
although the exact date isn't known, so there may be some truth in this
story.
In 1689, following James VII abandoning his throne,
Balvenie was garrisoned for William and Mary, but the garrison
fled following the battle of Killiecrankie and it was then occupied by
the Jacobites. In 1695 a garrison of two companies of foot
were
installed in the fortress. During the subsequent Jacobite
Rising
of 1715, the owner, William Duff, strengthened Balvenie for his own
security and pledged support for the Crown, although the castle wasn't
attacked. In 1724 William Duff of Braco and Dipple built
Balvenie
New House to replace the old castle. Despite this in 1745,
William Duff supported the Government during
the Jacobite Rising, and Balvenie castle was occupied by Government
forces the next year. Duff was later given the title Earl
Fife in
1759 and the castle remained their property until the Victorian era.
Description
The castle stands on a slight mound with defined embankments to the
north, south and east, some 80' beyond the castle enceinte. To
the north-west
and south-west sides is a wide flat-bottomed ditch some 40' across and
faced with
stone, with a break on the south-east side for the entrance. It
seems
likely that the ditch originally encircled the castle, but was
partially infilled and replaced by cultivation terraces. The
berm
at 30' is unusually wide, but this appears to be because the inner wall
of the ditch is in fact the curtain wall of an outer ward.
The
veracity of this is suggested by the ruins of an open backed D-shaped
turret at the current south apex of the site. This would have
made the castle concentric.
both inner and apparently outer fortress were built on a quadrangular plan aligned
approximately north-west to south-east, while the inner defence had a curtain wall which is still 30' high
in places and a little over 6' thick. A base section of the
original crenellated parapet remains on the south side of the
wall.
The outer wall measures around 170' south-east to north-west by around 130' north-east to south-west,
although the sides don't form a regular rectangle. Small
rectangular turrets projected from the curtain wall at the west and north
corners. There may have been another tower at the east corner
under
the site of the current large round tower of Atholl's
lodging. There does not appear to have been a tower at the
south
corner. The east tower was much bigger than the surviving
north tower
which seems to have been a latrine turret. Possibly the west
tower
was a larger rectangular keep, although the wall fragment remaining to
the south-east appears only 3' thick. At the centre of the courtyard
is a
well thought to date to the earliest period of the castle.
The
bottom is framed with oak timbers.
It has been held that the Douglas family was
responsible for building the ranges along the insides of the curtain
wall before 1455. These stand against the south end of the south-east
wall, to the south of the entrance. Here lie the remains of a
bakehouse on the ground floor, above which was a Great Hall measuring
around 42' by 20' and featuring a barrel-vaulted ceiling.
This range is similar
in style to the three storey hall-house at Dundonald castle in Ayrshire
which was built by King Robert II (d.1406), the
father-in-law of Archibald Douglas (d.1424) of Bothwell who died at the
battle of
Verneuil.
Along the north-west wall the Douglases built a 2 storey
accommodation block, on the ground floor of which were vaulted storage
cellars. In the south-west corner was an L shaped staircase leading
up to
the first floor which seems to have consisted of a main
outer hall entered directly from the stair, beyond which was a private
inner chamber. The only remains of this are the vaulting of
the
ground floor. Along the north end of the south-west wall were service
offices,
while to the south was a 2 storey kitchen complex which contains the
main kitchen, the huge flue of which stills stands, and a brewhouse
complete with brew cauldron. The arms of Atholl and Stewart
are
carved into the castle walls at various points.
Sometime, probably between 1547 and 1557, the castle
was extensively remodelled by Earl John Stewart of Atholl
(d.1579). A new Renaissance wing was built at the north end
of the south-east
wall, destroying much of the original castle at that end of the
courtyard. Whatever form the original entrance took it was
now
replaced with the ditch being filled in to the south-east and north.
The new
wing, known as the Atholl Lodging, was 3 storeys in height plus an
attic, with a large round projecting gun tower, similar to that seen at Huntly, built in the east
corner. Unlike the largely plain curtain wall
the Atholl Lodging contained various carved details and mouldings,
elaborate heraldic panels set into the walls at various points and
freestone dressings around the doorways, together with large windows
which were glazed with leaded glass above wooden shutters.
The sixteenth century entrance was originally protected by two
sets of wooden doors, neither of which survive although their hinges
do. Behind the 2 doors, and still
in place today, is a double-leaved yett, unique in Scotland.
Beyond these defences a small vaulted guardroom is situated on the west
side of the entrance tunnel. Around the arch of the new
entrance part of the old arch can still be seen, but the rest of the
facade largely dates to the time of the fourth earl of Atholl's
improvements. Flanking the entrance are a pair of round
turrets.
The north-east tower is slightly larger than it's south-west
neighbour, and more elaborate, containing a staircase. At
attic
level the round tower corbels out into a square, and is topped off with
a small caphouse with crow-stepped gables - similar to that seen at Dunnottar castle.
The south-west tower, which would have been used by
guests, was once surmounted by a plainer conical roof.
Why not join me at
Balvenie and other
Great Scottish Castles this Spring?
Information on tours at Scholarly
Sojourns.
Copyright©2019
Paul Martin Remfry